STARTING WITH SKINCARE: SERUMS
We don’t know about you, but one of the things we’ve been paying more attention too since going into lockdown is our skincare. Probably because it’s one of the things we’ve been able to control during this time and therefore, we’ve been getting, well - a little geeky about it. The world of skincare is equal parts exciting and confusing. There are plenty of elements to wrap one’s brain around — skin types, textures, ingredients, and wildly varying price points. Now, we can’t promise to help with every one of those, but we hope that the skincare articles we have planned for you (including this one) will help to answer at least a few questions you may have, as well as providing some much-needed insight.
We’ll start with serums, a category of skincare we love and get asked about a lot. If the old skincare routines argued that ‘cleanse, tone, and moisturise’ were the pillars of great skin health, today you’re more likely to encounter a ‘cleanse, serum, moisturise, SPF’ regime. It makes a lot of sense; serums are little powerhouses with the ability to deliver ingredients deeper into the epidermis much better than a moisturiser might. They can target a range of different concerns and there’s probably a serum out there that’s right for you. We’ve grouped the serums into a few broad categories for guidance and you’ll find our top picks for each one. Let’s dive in.
HYDRATING SERUMS
Starting with the simplest first: hydrating serums. Hydrating serums are pretty self-explanatory in that they add water to the skin. Most skin types can benefit from added hydration, even oily, as we all forget to drink our recommended intake of water or, worse, don’t see enough of the benefits from it on the surface. Typically a hydrating serum will contain the ingredient hyaluronic acid, which is present naturally in the skin, while glycerin and aloe vera are other ones to look out for. Hydrating serums tend to be gentle and can be used twice a day, including around the eye area. It’s important to follow them up with a moisturiser to lock in the hydration that will help preserve the plumped look all day long. I’ve been using The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid serum for a while and I love how it makes my skin look (and the price tag makes it even more appealing too). Bonus tip: apply your hydrating serum over damp skin to trap in even more water.
ANTIOXIDANT SERUMS
Serums containing antioxidants are something I consider essential for anyone living in a city and desiring to preserve their skin’s health. Our environment (unless you’re lucky enough to live on an idyllic island!) is full of pollution and stressors that cause inflammation, premature ageing, and dullness that no amount of sleep can shift. Antioxidants can help to combat these negative effects and treat fine lines, discolouration, and improve skin texture too. Think of an antioxidant serum like the adage ‘an apple a day keeps the doctor away’ and reach for one every morning alongside your green juice.
Inside the bottle, you’ll typically find ingredients like green tea, resveratrol (from red grapes), Vitamin C and its derivatives, and Vitamin E, to name just a few. Texture-wise, there’s a lot to choose from with formulas varying between watery and creamy, so opt for one you like most.
VITAMIN C SERUMS
Vitamin C is possibly the buzziest ingredient on everyone’s lips. It’s an antioxidant functioning like the ones described above, but in a serum where it’s the star ingredient, especially in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid, which is particularly potent. There’s some research suggesting that Vitamin C can help to prevent and treat collagen loss, hyperpigmentation, lines, and even boost the efficacy of sunscreen. Sounds pretty great, right? The problem is that it’s an unstable ingredient, meaning that packaging it correctly and formulating it for freshness pushes the price up high. That’s why Skinceuticals CE Ferulic serum is often cited as the gold standard, with a price tag to match.
Another consideration to keep in mind is that L-Ascorbic Acid might be too strong for those new to it or anyone with particularly sensitive skin. That’s where derivatives of Vitamin C come in; they’re less potent but still very worthy contenders for helping your skin protect and repair itself. Oskia’s Super C-Smart Capsules are the perfect daily dose for beginners, while Omorovicza’s Daily Vitamin C combines two stable forms of the vitamin with added niacinamide. I’ve been using and loving C-Tetra by Medik8 for its brightening benefits, lovely texture and reasonably priced tag.
RETINOL SERUMS
Retinol is another star ingredient which, alongside Vitamin C, people want to know the most about. Retinol comes from Vitamin A and it has the ability to smooth and repair lines, treat discolouration, boost collagen production, reduce breakouts and even out skin texture. It’s best to tread carefully and conservatively with any product containing retinol. Build up your tolerance by starting with a low concentration serum spaced a few nights apart. A non-negotiable when using retinol-containing serums (though for me it’s a non-negotiable always) is a proper sunscreen, at least factor thirty, especially when you are outside and more exposed to the sun, as retinol ‘can’ make your skin a little more sensitive to UV rays.
For beginners I would recommend something like the Elizabeth Arden Retinol Night Capsules or The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid Emulsion 2%; start by using it just one or two nights a week to monitor how your skin responds. Seasoned retinol users will love the potency of Paula’s Choice Retinol 1% Booster and Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni Retinol Cream — both pack a serious punch and can cause the dreaded peeling, so apply sparingly.
SERUMS FOR OILY AND SPOT-PRONE SKIN
Plenty of the serums I discussed and featured above would be well-suited to oily and spot-prone skin. Still, it’s sometimes nice to have a product dedicated specifically for your skin type to hopefully remove some of the guess work when it comes to making a decision. Oily and spot-prone skin would benefit from lighter textures and ingredients aimed at clarifying, like zinc, salicylic acid, and niacinamide. A mistake to avoid, though it’s an understandable one, is over-stripping the skin of natural oils with astringent products that can cause dryness, dehydration, and flaking. That’s why all the products I’m recommending contain at least some hydrating ingredients. Treat your skin gently and it’ll thank you in the long run.
THE POWER PLAYERS
If you’re still unsure after reading this article, which direction to go in and would like answers to your skincare woes in one uncomplicated bottle, then let me introduce you to what I call ‘The Power Players’. They do a little bit of everything, combining antioxidants with hydrators and other beneficial ingredients to smooth, plump, repair, protect. You all know how much I love my Susan Kaufmann Intensive Power Serum Line A for doing all the aforementioned things when I don’t feel like thinking too much about my skincare. Or I’ll reach for my Aurelia CBD Super Serum to cover all bases (it’s anti-inflammatory and an anti-stresser, as CBD oil is to the mind). Similarly, Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair is a great classic, or you could opt for La Mer’s The Concentrate if you are happy to open your wallet a little wider.
Words by Zhenya Tsenzharyk.
