This wasn't the first time I've been to Split, but it was a much different place to the historical city (it dates back to the 4th century) that I wandered through seven years ago with a friend in early May. Split has since exploded with tourism and bars, to become quite the party town, with music bellowing out of almost every street corner, swarms of people walking through its little streets, looking like (aptly described by a friend we bumped into) they were part of a big wedding and Yacht Week boats docked in its bay. There was none of that off-the-beaten track, relaxed vibe I encountered last time I was here. Not that I was complaining, it just wasn't what I was expected and I arrived feeling very underdressed. Luckily we managed to find a few quiet corners, good eateries (even if you have to queue) and beautiful beaches - the ones further away from Split being the better. Scroll down to my address book for a few must-eats.
Fife - with large wooden sharing tables, it looks like a busy beer garden, but this place does the biggest plates of fried calamari I've ever seen, at a ridiculously good price. You'll have to queue for a table, but no more than around 20 minutes as it has a very quick turn around. Just don't expect to wile away a whole evening here, unless you're a very slow eater!
Uje Oil Bar - this was our favourite, more upmarket restaurant. You'll need to reserve or you can grab a glass of wine at the bar while you wait for a table to become available. Try 'Our Pork' and they have great wine.
To Je To - this was the best place we found for coffee and good for lunch too!
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